Gucci, once a titan in the luxury fashion industry, is currently navigating turbulent waters. The brand has faced a significant decline in sales, particularly following the departure of its former creative director, Alessandro Michele, in 2022. Michele's tenure was marked by a distinctive maximalist aesthetic that resonated with many consumers. However, after his exit, Gucci struggled to maintain its momentum.

In an effort to revitalize the brand, Sabato De Sarno was appointed as creative director in January 2023. De Sarno, previously with Valentino, aimed to steer Gucci towards a more refined and universally appealing aesthetic, moving away from Michele's maximalism.

Despite these efforts, Gucci's sales continued to decline, with a reported 25% drop to €1.64 billion in the third quarter of 2024. This downturn contributed to a 16% decrease in overall sales for Kering, Gucci's parent company.

De Sarno's tenure was also marked by attempts to connect with a younger audience, including collaborations with Gen-Z celebrities like Bad Bunny. However, this strategy faced criticism due to the disconnect between the brand's high price points and the financial realities of the Gen-Z demographic.
Additionally, some long-standing customers felt alienated by the shift in brand ambassadors and product offerings.

A deeper issue for Gucci lies in its struggle with brand identity. Unlike competitors such as Chanel, which boasts a plethora of iconic symbols like tweed, camellias, and pearls, Gucci lacks a consistent and universally recognized set of brand codes. While accessories like the horsebit loafers are recognizable, there is an absence of iconic clothing silhouettes that persist through various eras of the brand. This inconsistency makes it challenging for any creative director to maintain brand cohesion.

Which is why, no matter who puts their hands on the creative direction of gucci, without strong, authentic brand codes, gucci stands no sustainable chance.

However, let’s look at the potential candidates and break down who could be the next savior of Gucci.

**Kim Jones**

After years at Dior and Fendi, Kim Jones is available for a new creative challenge.
Jones is known for blending streetwear elements with luxury fashion, his aesthetic focuses on modern tailoring and innovative collaborations. At Gucci, he could introduce an edge and blend it with traditional tailoring, potentially with deconstructed silhouettes. Will it be enough to revive the brand? Not too sure…

**Hedi Slimane**

A very likely candidate for the position is Hedi Slimane.
Renowned for his work at Saint Laurent and Celine, Slimane's aesthetic is characterized by a rock-and-roll sensibility and slim silhouettes. However, his tendency to imprint his personal style onto brands might overshadow Gucci's identity, potentially leading to a further dilution of its unique characteristics.
After seeing his recent work at Celine, there is a great potential that Slimane can tap into the vintage aesthetic of Gucci, and adapt it to today’s consumer.

**John Galliano**

Galliano is celebrated for his theatrical, edgy and romantic designs. His aesthetic includes elaborate storytelling and intricate detailing. At Gucci, Galliano could reintroduce glamour and whimsy, infusing the brand with a sense of elegant luxury.
Although his runway shows are overly extravagant and not truly wearable day-to-day, his work at Margiela was quite spectacular, especially adapting the runway to ready to wear.
Galliano could be an interesting choice for Gucci!

**Virginie Viard**

During her tenure at Chanel, she emphasized wearability, classic tailoring, and feminine silhouettes, favoring subtle evolution over radical reinvention.
At Gucci, she might bring a more restrained, heritage-focused vision—potentially appealing to an older, established clientele. However, Gucci’s success has historically been driven by disruptive aesthetics. Viard’s minimalistic, conservative approach might struggle to resonate with the audience.

**Pierpaolo Piccioli**

Piccioli is acclaimed for his romantic and ethereal designs, often featuring vibrant colors and fluid silhouettes. The risk is that his designs could feel too polished or romantic for a brand that has historically played with provocation and excess.

Conclusion

Gucci's challenges are multifaceted, encompassing declining sales, a diluted brand identity, and the need for visionary leadership.

The appointment of a new creative director presents an opportunity to redefine Gucci's aesthetic and market position. However, without establishing strong, authentic brand codes, even the most talented designer may struggle to achieve sustainable success for the brand.

Who do you think is the best fit? Or should Gucci look for a completely new, young designer?

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